Best Glue for Arrow Inserts
Epoxy, cyanoacrylate, or hot melt — matched to your shaft, your insert, and how badly you'll want to take it apart again later.
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For most arrow builds, epoxy is the safer default for bonding inserts: it works across more shaft materials, fills small gaps between the insert and the shaft wall, and holds up better across temperature swings than the alternatives. Cyanoacrylate (CA, or super glue) is the better call when you need a fast field repair or you're gluing into aluminum, since it sets in seconds and skips the mixing step entirely. Hot melt is the odd one out — it's the only one of the three you can reverse just by reheating the joint, which matters if you rebuild arrows often, though Easton and Bohning both steer standard hot melt away from carbon shafts.
Below, I break down all three adhesive types, match them to specific shaft and insert materials, and list the individual products archers and manufacturers cite most often, from G5 G-Lock Blu-Glu to J-B Weld's ClearWeld epoxy. Arrow cleanliness matters just as much as the glue you pick, so I cover that too. The finder tool right below the quick answers scores all sixteen of them against your exact shaft, insert, and rebuild plans, instead of making you read the whole page to find your case.
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, ArcheryEra earns from qualifying purchases — this never changes which adhesive the tool recommends. Every technical claim below is still sourced straight from the manufacturer's own data sheet or product page, linked inline as I use it.
What's the Best Arrow Insert Glue for Each Situation?
There's no single adhesive that wins every category — the right pick depends on your shaft material, whether you need a permanent bond or a reversible one, and how fast you need it to cure. Tap any pick to load that exact scenario into the finder below: same scoring engine, same numbers, nothing here is a separate opinion from the tool.
- Best Overall G5 G-Lock Blu-Glu (ties top with Gorilla Super Glue & Easton Quickbond)
- Best All-Purpose Gorilla Super Glue (ties top with 2 Loctite CA glues)
- Strongest Bond J-B Weld ClearWeld 5 Minute Epoxy (ties Loctite Epoxy 5-Min here; J-B Weld publishes the higher psi)
- Best Cold-Weather Epoxy Loctite Epoxy Five-Minute Instant Mix
- Best for Carbon Arrows AAE Epoxy (ties top with Bohning Insert Iron)
- Best for Aluminum Arrows Bohning Insert Iron (ties with Gorilla & AAE Epoxy — any general epoxy bonds aluminum well)
- Best for Wood Arrows Bohning Platinum Fletch-Tite
- Lower-Maintenance Pick Bohning 1308 Ferry-L-Tite Cool Flex
- Quick Field Repair Easton Dr. Doug's Quickbond (ties top with Gorilla Super Glue & Loctite Ultra Gel)
- Easiest to Apply Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control (ties top with Gorilla Super Glue)
The Arrow Insert Glue Finder
Set up your shaft, insert material and rebuild plans once, and the engine scores all sixteen adhesives above against your exact combination and ranks the top 3. Results update instantly, and the URL updates too, so you can bookmark or share your exact match.
How the Matching Engine Works
The finder scores all sixteen adhesives in its database against your seven inputs on a weighted 100-point scale, then ranks the three highest scorers. The weighting isn't arbitrary — each factor's point value tracks how much manufacturer failure-mode data and my own priority order above say it actually predicts a bond failure:
26
pts · Shaft Material
Biggest predictor — carbon, aluminum, wood and fiberglass decide which adhesive family is even in play.
20
pts · Reversibility
Epoxy, CA and hot melt sit at three different points on the permanent-to-removable spectrum.
16
pts · Cure Speed
A field repair and a 72-hour cement solve two completely different problems.
12
pts · Temperature
Cold slows CA's cure and makes it brittle; some epoxies barely cure below 70°F.
10
pts · Insert Fit
A loose or undersized insert needs a gap-filling adhesive; a snug one doesn't care.
10
pts · Primary Purpose
A hunting arrow needs to survive a broadhead impact; a target arrow doesn't.
6
pts · Insert Material
Aluminum, brass, steel and titanium inserts bond almost identically — a small tiebreaker, not a decider.
Why shaft material and reversibility carry the most weight and insert material barely moves the needle: that ranking matches what I actually see in the product data above — Easton and Bohning both split their own recommendations by shaft material first, and every manufacturer data sheet I checked either says nothing about insert material or says any metal insert is fine. An even split across all seven factors would let a glue that's wrong for your shaft still rank #1 just because it happened to match your temperature preference, which isn't how these bonds actually fail.
Why does epoxy form a bond you basically can't reverse?
Epoxy cures through a cross-linking chemical reaction between resin and hardener — once it sets, the two components have permanently rearranged themselves into a single rigid polymer network (a thermoset), the same chemistry WEST SYSTEM's epoxy chemistry guide describes for other engineering uses. Unlike a thermoplastic, that network doesn't re-melt with heat, which is exactly why epoxy scores lowest on reversibility here and why removing a fully-cured epoxy joint usually means damaging the shaft, not just heating it.
Why is hot melt the only insert glue that's genuinely repair-friendly?
Hot melt is a thermoplastic, not a thermoset — applying heat again just returns it to the same workable liquid state it started in, with no chemical change involved. That lets you melt, remove, and reapply it more or less indefinitely, which is why it's the standard pick when you expect to rebuild an arrow later, even though Easton and Bohning both steer the standard formula away from carbon.
Why does a loose-fitting insert need a different glue than a snug one?
Cyanoacrylate cures fastest as a thin film — spread it across a wide, uneven gap and the middle of that film can stay under-cured while the edges skin over, leaving a weaker bond than the cure time on the bottle suggests. Epoxy cures through a bulk chemical reaction between resin and hardener that isn't limited to a thin surface layer, so it keeps its strength even bridging an irregular gap — which is the whole reason gap-filling shows up as its own factor in the scoring above.
Sources referenced for this methodology: the Easton arrow assembly guide (PDF), Gold Tip's arrow assembly guide, and the individual product technical data sheets linked throughout the breakdown below.
What Should You Look for in an Arrow Insert Glue?
There are a handful of features that matter across every arrow insert glue, though how much you weight each one depends on your own priorities.
Durability: A good insert glue improves the overall durability of the arrow by providing a stable connection between shaft and insert.
Secure attachment: It should create a bond that withstands high forces and tensions without loosening, even slightly, over repeated shots.
Vibration dampening: Higher-quality glues also absorb some vibration, which can make shots feel and sound smoother.
Compatibility: The glue needs to work with your specific shaft material — carbon, aluminum, or wood — without damaging the components (see the material breakdown below).
Environmental resistance: Some formulas resist temperature and humidity better than others, which matters if you shoot or hunt outdoors in variable weather.
Drying and curing time: This varies a lot by glue type. Cyanoacrylate bonds much faster than epoxy — epoxy can take up to a full day to cure under good conditions, and some formulas take longer.
Viscosity: This refers to how thick and flowable the glue is. Lower-viscosity glues penetrate tight spaces better.
Ease of application: Super glue is generally the simplest to use. Hot melt needs extra equipment and a correct application temperature, and epoxy needs precise pre-mixing — so super glue tends to win on convenience.
Gap-filling: If there's a slight size mismatch between the insert and the shaft, a glue with good gap-filling properties helps close that gap evenly.
Weight: Even in small amounts, the adhesive adds some weight to the arrow. If you're sensitive to total arrow weight, a lower-density adhesive is worth prioritizing.
Reversibility: If you expect to remove or replace the insert later, pick an adhesive built for that. Epoxy tends to be the most stubborn to reverse.
Safety: A solid connection between shaft and insert is a safety issue, not just a performance one — picking the right glue reduces the odds of an insert working loose mid-shot.
What Types of Arrow Insert Glue Are There?
Three types of adhesive cover almost all arrow insert applications: epoxy resin, cyanoacrylate (super glue), and hot melt. Choosing the right one for your shaft material has a real effect on how reliable and long-lasting the bond is.
What Is Epoxy Resin and How Does It Bond Arrow Inserts?
Epoxy is a two-part adhesive made by mixing resin and hardener. Once combined, they undergo a chemical reaction that produces a durable, rigid bond, which is why it's widely used in archery for insert attachment. You can read more on how epoxy resin works in general from WEST SYSTEM's epoxy chemistry guide.
Mixing epoxy correctly, in the right ratio, and giving it enough time to cure is a real process. Some brands simplify this with an easy 1:1 formulation, but that convenience can come at the cost of bond strength, so it's worth checking a product's technical data sheet rather than assuming all epoxies perform the same.
- Resistant to impact, vibration, and temperature changes, which suits varying weather conditions.
- Known for exceptional bonding strength — a durable, resilient bond with strong structural integrity.
- Works across most arrow shaft materials.
- Fills small gaps and irregularities, especially useful when the insert and shaft are slightly mismatched in size.
- Low shrinkage during curing, which keeps the bond tight and minimizes gaps or weak spots.
- Resistant to chemicals and moisture, protecting the bond in varied outdoor conditions.
- A longer working time than fast-setting adhesives, giving you more time to position the insert correctly before it sets.
- Longer curing time compared to cyanoacrylate.
- More difficult to remove from the shaft than CA.
- Usually comes as two parts that need mixing in the correct ratio per the manufacturer's instructions — though many current epoxy formulations have simplified this considerably.
Which Adhesive Works Best for Carbon Arrow Inserts?
When you sort by shaft material, epoxy resin takes the lead for anything other than wood. Epoxy is already the standard for hardening carbon fiber in other engineering applications, which is part of why it performs so well bonding carbon arrow inserts — it matches the material's strength, durability, and compatibility needs closely.
What Is Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) and How Does It Perform on Arrow Inserts?
Cyanoacrylate, better known as super glue, is a popular arrow-insert adhesive because of a specific set of characteristics that suit the application well.
- Fast bonding — forms a strong bond within seconds to minutes.
- Simple application process.
- Works well across various arrow materials.
- Well suited to fast field repairs.
- Available in a wide range of viscosities (thickness).
- Generally doesn't expand significantly as it cures.
- Some formulations can be brittle (a more flexible glue is usually preferable).
- Doesn't fill gaps as effectively as epoxy.
- More susceptible to heat changes and humidity than epoxy.
Tip: Cyanoacrylate has a more brittle nature and can be softened or dissolved with solvents like acetone. Epoxy, by contrast, forms a stronger, more resilient bond that's harder to remove. If you expect to need future removal or adjustments, cyanoacrylate is usually the more practical option.
Warning: CA glues cure the fastest of the three types — but the faster a glue dries, the more brittle it tends to be.
What Is Hot Melt Adhesive and When Should You Use It?
Hot melt is a solid adhesive that's melted to a liquid for application, then solidifies quickly on cooling into a strong bond. That combination of speed and reversibility is why it shows up in various archery bonding applications.
- Solidifies quickly for a fast bond — sets within minutes.
- Convenient to apply.
- Softens and can be reversed by reapplying heat.
- Generally not as strong as epoxy or CA.
- Requires additional equipment (a glue gun or heat source) to apply.
- Can soften again in high temperatures.
- Doesn't have the same gap-filling properties as epoxy resin.
How Do Epoxy, CA, and Hot Melt Compare Side by Side?
| Characteristic | Epoxy | Hot Melt | CA (Cyanoacrylate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Curing time | Longer (hours) | Rapid (seconds to minutes) | Fast (minutes) |
| Strength | High | Lower than the others | Moderate (some high-impact options) |
| Flexibility | Moderate (vibration absorption) | High | Low (more brittle) |
| Ease of use | Requires mixing; dual syringes available | Easy (glue gun or a simple lighter commonly used) | Easiest (quick application) |
| Temperature sensitivity | Strong (less sensitive to temperature) | Weak (softens with heat, can turn brittle in cold) | Moderate (less effective in extreme heat) |
| Environmental stability | Stable across a range of conditions | Susceptible to temperature changes | Sensitive to temperature and humidity |
| Reversible bond | Low | High | Moderate |
| Gap-filling | High | Low | Medium |
| Density | 1.1 to 1.4 g/cm³ | Lightweight — 0.9 to 1.2 g/cm³ | 1.05 to 1.2 g/cm³ |
Always follow the manufacturer's guidelines rather than a generic rule of thumb — while chasing a single "best" glue, it's easy to miss the choice that's actually right for your shafts. Sticking to the recommended application method and curing time matters more than the brand you pick.
Both Easton's arrow-assembly FAQ and Gold Tip's arrow assembly guide publish their own glue recommendations you can check against your specific shafts.
What Factors Should You Consider When Choosing Arrow Insert Glue?
The most important factors when picking an arrow insert glue are the shaft and insert material, along with your shaft diameter. The guidance below is general — always check the manufacturer's specifications and technical data sheet for your exact shaft and insert.
What Glue Works Best for Wooden Arrows and Inserts?
Traditional wood glues, such as carpenter's glue, are often suitable for bonding wooden arrows and inserts.
Wood is a relatively flexible material, so the glue needs some give too. PVA (polyvinyl acetate) wood glues are known for that flexibility and are a common choice for wooden arrows. Cyanoacrylate also works well on wooden surfaces, and Bohning's Platinum Fletch-Tite, designed for both carbon and wood, is worth considering if you want one glue that works on both.
Tip: Wood absorbs moisture, so choosing a glue that resists environmental factors matters more here than on other materials.
What Glue Works Best for Aluminum Arrows and Inserts?
Cyanoacrylate-based (CA) glues work well with aluminum, and most super glue adhesives claim high durability on metal surfaces.
Tip: Make sure the glue you pick is compatible with aluminum specifically, since the wrong chemistry can encourage corrosion at the bond line.
What Glue Works Best for Carbon Arrows and Inserts?
Carbon shafts leave less room to experiment with adhesive type. Because of the material's construction, epoxy-based adhesives are generally much more suitable than general-purpose glue for carbon inserts.
What Glue Works Best for Hybrid or Composite Arrows?
Epoxy-based glues are the common choice for composite arrows, since they bond well across mixed materials and provide a flexible yet durable bond.
What Glue Works Best for Fiberglass Arrows?
Fiberglass is essentially a reinforced plastic, so the adhesives commonly used on plastic surfaces — super glues in particular — tend to suit it well.
Because fiberglass is a flexible material, it's worth picking an adhesive with higher flexibility to match.
General tip: Before gluing the whole arrow, run a small compatibility test in an inconspicuous spot to confirm the adhesive works well with your specific shaft material.
What Glue Works Best for Brass and Steel Inserts?
For metal inserts like brass or steel, any adhesive suited to metal surfaces will generally work, so the deciding factor comes down to your priorities — curing time, strength, ease of use. My own recommendation is hot melt or super glue for brass and steel inserts specifically.
What Glue Works Best for Titanium Inserts?
Most adhesives on the market are multi-purpose, and there isn't really a titanium-specific arrow glue. In practice, epoxies or super glues formulated for metal surfaces give satisfactory results on titanium as well.
Does Arrow Shaft Diameter Affect Which Glue You Should Use?
For smaller-diameter shafts, a low-viscosity, thin cyanoacrylate (super glue) is usually the best option, since it can penetrate tight spaces that a thicker glue can't reach.
If there's a size mismatch or irregularity between the insert and the shaft, choose a glue with good gap-filling properties instead, like certain epoxy resins.
How Do You Glue an Insert In, Step by Step?
Every product breakdown below assumes you start from the same short procedure. Skip a step here and it usually doesn't matter which glue you picked.
- Clean the inside of the shaft and the insert itself with isopropyl alcohol or acetone, and let it dry fully. Leftover dust, oil or factory residue is the single biggest cause of a failed bond — Bohning's own guide to cleaning an arrow shaft calls this out specifically.
- Dry-fit the insert before any glue touches the shaft. Push it in by hand and check for a snug, even fit all the way around — if it wobbles or sits unevenly, that's your cue to pick a gap-filling epoxy rather than a thin CA.
- Pick your adhesive based on shaft material and how permanent you need the bond to be. The finder above does this in a few clicks, or work through the material breakdown further down the page yourself.
- Apply a thin, even bead around the insert shank rather than a thick blob. Excess glue only squeezes out and adds weight you don't need on the business end of the arrow.
- Seat the insert with a slight twisting motion to spread the adhesive evenly, then wipe off anything that squeezes out before it sets.
- Respect the clamp and cure times on the product's own data sheet, not a guess. A CA glue can feel solid in a minute and still not be at full strength for another 24 hours.
- Give it a firm tug test once the full cure window has passed, before it ever goes on a bow. Bowhunting.com's own install walkthrough recommends this as the last check before you trust an insert with a hunting shot.
Which Specific Arrow Insert Glue Products Are Worth Considering?
Here I've tried to lay out as much detail as I could find about the adhesives archers and bowhunters most commonly reach for.
Outside of adhesives developed by bow and arrow brands themselves, most of these are multipurpose products, so I can't claim to have tested their features against archery-specific performance benchmarks — the notes below are drawn from manufacturer data sheets, product listings, and what other archers report.
For your own choice, it's worth narrowing down to 2-3 features that matter most to you — material compatibility, ease of use, quick curing, and so on — before comparing options.
Before picking a glue, it's worth calling out arrow cleanliness specifically. Any dirt, oil, grime, or dust inside the shaft will significantly impair adhesion and diminish performance, no matter which glue you use.
See Bohning's guide to cleaning an arrow shaft — properly cleaning the shaft is as important as choosing the right glue in the first place.
Arrow Insert Glue Comparison Table
All sixteen adhesives the finder above scores against, side by side. None of these carry a paid link — "Product Page" goes straight to the manufacturer or a plain retailer listing.
| Photo | Glue | Buy | Type | Best For | Cure Time | Reversible |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gorilla Epoxy | Amazon → | Epoxy | Wood, aluminum, gap-filling | 5 min reposition / 24 hr full cure | Low | |
| AAE Epoxy | Amazon → | Epoxy | Carbon & aluminum, Easton-recommended | 24 hr full cure | Low | |
| BSI-205 Clear Slow-Cure Epoxy | Amazon → | Epoxy | Waterproof, heat-resistant outdoor use | 8 hr handle / 24 hr full cure | Low | |
| Loctite Epoxy Five-Minute Instant Mix | Amazon → | Epoxy | Cold-weather rated, self-mixing | 5 min set / 24 hr full cure | Low | |
| J-B Weld ClearWeld 5 Minute Epoxy | Amazon → | Epoxy | Highest published tensile strength | 5 min set / 1–2 day full cure | Low | |
| Gorilla Super Glue | Amazon → | CA | General purpose, -65° to 220°F rated | 10–45 sec set | Moderate | |
| Loctite Super Glue Liquid Longneck Bottle | Amazon → | CA | Close-fitting repairs | 15–30 sec set | Moderate | |
| Bohning Insert Iron | Amazon → | CA-Based Cement | Insert/point-specific, all shafts but wood | 48–72 hr cure | Low | |
| Bohning Platinum Fletch-Tite | Page → | Solvent Cement | Wood, cold weather, flexibility | 5 min clamp / 24–48 hr cure | Moderate | |
| Easton Dr. Doug's Quickbond | Amazon → | CA (Toughened) | Field repairs, cold-weather flex | Seconds set / 15–30 min cure | Moderate | |
| Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control | Page → | CA (Gel) | No-drip control, temperature swings | 15–30 sec / 12–24 hr full cure | Moderate | |
| G5 G-Lock Blu-Glu Adhesive | Amazon → | CA | Inserts & fletching, well-balanced pick | Seconds–5 min / 24 hr recommended | Moderate | |
| Gold Tip Grip Arrow Adhesive | Amazon → | CA | Carbon-to-insert, waterproof | Seconds | Low | |
| Bohning 1309 Ferr-L-Tite | Amazon → | Hot Melt | Wood & aluminum only, not carbon | ~5 min at room temp | High | |
| Bohning 1308 Ferry-L-Tite Cool Flex | Amazon → | Hot Melt | Carbon-safe hot melt | Room-temp cure | High | |
| Easton Hot Melt | Amazon → | Hot Melt | Aluminum & hybrid shafts only | Minutes | High |
What Are the Best Epoxy Resins for Arrow Inserts?
Gorilla Epoxy

- Strong and durable, designed originally for household and automotive repairs.
- Gorilla offers this product for outdoor use, unlike Gorilla Super Glue.
- Application temperature 50° to 100°F, service temperature -10° to 180°F.
- An easy-to-use syringe keeps the resin and hardener separate until dispensing.
- Withstands moderate water exposure, though it's not recommended for continual water exposure.
- The gap-filling formula bonds steel, aluminum, glass, wood, ceramic, tile, and most plastics.
- Fills voids and bonds uneven and vertical surfaces.
- Dries to a clear finish.
- Solvent-resistant once cured.
- Separate barrels of resin and hardener keep the epoxy from hardening early, and the syringe includes a cap for multiple uses.
- Offers about 5 minutes of repositioning time for a good fit.
- Needs 30 minutes undisturbed cure before handling.
- Full cure for load-bearing weight takes around 24 hours.
- Shelf life up to 2 years.
Source: Gorilla Epoxy product page I also keep an eye on the current Gorilla Epoxy listing on Amazon for stock and pricing.
AAE Epoxy

- Specifically designed for arrow inserts.
- A formula built to retain some elasticity while still holding firmly.
- Performs well with aluminum and carbon arrows.
- Can also work on wood, though it's not possible to remove it without damaging the wood.
- Easy to use.
- Full cure time is 24 hours.
Tip: Easton Archery recommends this product in its own arrow-assembly guidance. See the Easton arrow assembly guide (PDF) and AAE Epoxy product listing. Current stock and pricing for AAE Epoxy are easiest to check on Amazon.
Bob Smith Industries BSI-205 Clear Slow-Cure Epoxy

- Bonded objects can be handled after 8 hours, with full strength reached within 24 hours.
- The highest-strength epoxy in the Bob Smith lineup, and it holds that strength across both the lowest and highest temperatures the brand rates it for.
- Waterproof, heat-resistant, and suitable for outdoor applications.
- Should be applied above 70°F — below that it cures more slowly, and if it's too cold it may never fully cure.
- Full cure in 6-8 hours, though it forms a stronger bond if left overnight.
- The gap-filling formula bonds glass, metal, foam, wood, ceramic, and most plastics.
- Specific gravity is 1.15 (hardener) / 0.97 (resin) g/cm³.
See technical data sheet and the BSI-205 product page. BSI-205 is also easy to track down on Amazon if your local shop doesn't carry it.
Loctite Epoxy Five-Minute Instant Mix

- A self-mixing nozzle dispenses and mixes the two-part resin and hardener in equal amounts automatically.
- Works as a general gap filler, for surface repairs, and for laminating.
- Can be sanded and drilled once cured.
- Sets in 5 minutes, reaches handling strength in 20 minutes, and fully cures in 24 hours.
- Doesn't shrink, and resists humidity, water, and most common solvents.
- Works across metal, wood, ceramic, stone, glass, and most plastics.
- Rated for long-term continuous exposure from -10°F (-23°C) to 120°F (49°C) — one of the only insert-glue options here with a genuine cold-weather rating.
- Shorter shelf life than some competitors — 18 months unopened from the date of manufacture.
- Maximum tensile shear strength of 3211 psi after a 24-hour cure.
- Specific gravity is 1.10 (hardener) / 1.04 (resin) g/cm³.
See technical data sheet and the Loctite Epoxy Five-Minute product page. I check Amazon first for this one, since it's usually the fastest way to get it before a hunt.
J-B Weld ClearWeld 5 Minute Epoxy

- A quick-setting, multipurpose two-part epoxy.
- 1:1 mixing ratio, sets in 5 minutes, handles in 1 hour — below 40°F, set time runs longer. Give it 1-2 days for a complete cure.
- Tensile strength of 3900 psi once fully cured, for a hard, permanent bond — the highest published figure of any glue on this page, which is why I flag it as the strongest-bond pick above.
- Works on automotive parts, brick, ceramic, cloth, carpet, fiberglass, glass, plastic, and composite.
- Clean the surface with a detergent or degreaser first for the best results.
- A re-sealable cap extends shelf life.
- Density is 1.13 g/cm³.
See technical data sheet and the ClearWeld product page. J-B Weld ClearWeld is also sold on Amazon.
What Are the Best Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) Options for Arrow Inserts?
Gorilla Super Glue

- Compatible with a wide range of materials — a genuinely all-purpose super glue.
- Mostly marketed for household use, but performs well for archery too. It's a frequent pick on other archers' insert-glue lists.
- Formulated for impact resistance and porous or vertical surfaces, though its shear (side-impact) strength is its main weak point.
- Bonds in 10-45 seconds without clamping, though I'd recommend waiting at least a minute with a clamp anyway — full bonding takes place over roughly 24 hours per the instructions, even for a super glue.
- An anti-clog cap with a metal pin inside keeps the glue from drying out.
- Service temperature -65° to 220°F.
- A special formula that keeps it from oozing out too quickly.
- Bonds parts and materials almost instantly (watch your fingers).
- Mess-free packaging in normal use.
- Thicker than a typical thin super glue, but not quite as thick as a gel formula.
- The bottle is a thick plastic that can be hard to squeeze — you may need both hands.
- Not waterproof or water-resistant.
- Only about 1 drop per square inch is recommended, so a single bottle covers a lot of arrows. It's shootable after about 30 minutes of drying time.
- Specific gravity 1.10 g/cm³.
See a Gorilla Super Glue application demo, the technical data sheet, and the Gorilla Super Glue product page. Gorilla Super Glue is widely stocked, including on Amazon.
Loctite Super Glue Liquid Longneck Bottle

- A well-known, trusted brand.
- Offers a range of cyanoacrylate products suitable for arrow inserts.
- Known for fast bonding and ease of use.
- Some formulations can be brittle.
- Works well on porous and non-porous surfaces and close-fitting repairs, but has more limited gap-filling than epoxy.
- Dries transparent.
- Bonding time is 15-30 seconds. Service temperature up to 180°F (82°C), and the data sheet notes resistance to freezing temperatures too.
- A precision tip allows either a continuous flow or a precise single drop.
- An extra-long nozzle reaches hard-to-access spots.
- An easy-open cap with a metal pin cleans and seals the nozzle to prevent clogging.
- Bonds leather, ceramic, rubber, paper, metal, china, wood, and most plastics.
- Resistant to moisture, most chemicals, and freezing temperatures.
- Specific gravity 1.05 g/cm³.
See technical data sheet. See the Loctite Longneck listing on Amazon for current availability.
Bohning Insert Iron

- Specifically designed for inserts and points.
- Works on all shaft types — carbon, aluminum, fiberglass, and wood — though I wouldn't recommend it for wood specifically.
- Aluminum and carbon shafts especially need to be thoroughly cleaned before applying.
- Not reversible.
- Cure time is much longer than any of the super glues here: 48 hours, or 72 hours if the air is dry.
- Refrigerator storage is not recommended.
- Up to a 1-year expiration on unopened bottles.
- Expands more than a regular super glue, so use a small drop spread evenly across the surface.
- Density 1.1 g/cm³.
See technical data sheet and the Bohning Insert Iron product page. Bohning Insert Iron is also available on Amazon.
Bohning Platinum Fletch-Tite

- Its biggest advantage is flexibility — the archery industry's most flexible insert bonding option by most accounts. It absorbs shock and doesn't become brittle after repeated target impacts, and it stays flexible in cold weather better than a plain CA glue.
- A solvent-based glue designed for vanes, nocks, and securing inserts.
- Not an instant glue — recommended clamp time is 5 minutes, with a 24-hour cure time (48 hours in humid conditions).
- Refrigerator storage is not recommended.
- Easy clean-up — excess glue scrapes off with a fingernail.
- Works on carbon, aluminum, wood, fiberglass, wraps, and painted shafts.
See the Bohning product catalog (PDF) and the Fletch-Tite Platinum product page.
Easton Dr. Doug's Quickbond

- Essentially an impact-resistant super glue, built on a rubber-toughened resin that resists the brittle cracking a standard CA shows in cold weather.
- Specifically designed for arrow inserts.
- Sets in seconds, so you need to be quick if you want to make a small adjustment.
- Full cure takes 15-30 minutes.
- Primer Pen compatible.
- Works with all arrow types.
- A solid choice for quick field repairs, especially on carbon shafts.
See the Easton Hunting catalog (PDF). Dr. Doug's Quickbond is also sold on Amazon, which is where I'd check first for a fast restock before season.
Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control
- A no-drip, no-run gel formula.
- Easy to use thanks to its squeeze-control design.
- High resistance to water, impact, moisture, and temperature swings.
- One of the more durable formulas in Loctite's lineup.
- Instant adhesive (15-30 seconds), dries clear, and sets without clamping — though full cure still takes 12-24 hours.
- Not suited to gap-filling applications.
- A special container design lets you use the entire tube without waste at the bottom.
- Specific gravity 1.05 g/cm³.
See technical data sheet and the Ultra Gel Control product page.
G5 G-Lock Blu-Glu Adhesive

- Provides a solid, flexible bond.
- The application tip isn't quite as refined as some competitors'.
- Well suited to installing inserts and fletching arrows.
- Adheres in seconds, ideally within 5 minutes, and dries very fast — though I'd still recommend leaving it overnight (24 hours) to be sure it's fully cured.
- A little thinner than most other glues here. Dries clear for a clean-looking arrow.
- One of the more balanced options for what you get versus what you pay, alongside Gorilla Super Glue.
- G5 is known for broadheads and other archery accessories, and offers specialized glues built for hunting conditions.
- Doesn't have as extensive a product range as some larger adhesive brands.
See the G5 G-Lock Blu-Glu product listing. Check current availability on Amazon.
Gold Tip Grip Arrow Adhesive

- Waterproof.
- Forms a permanent, non-reversible bond.
- Gold Tip has a lot of experience with fletching-specific glue, and in my view this product is a bit more successful as a fletching glue than as an insert glue.
- Designed specifically to bond inserts to carbon.
- Dries in seconds for a strong bond.
- A good tip design keeps the right amount of glue flowing.
- Much stronger than a standard super glue.
- The tube plastic is fairly thick, which can make it harder to squeeze once you're running low.
- Storing it in the refrigerator is generally recommended to extend usability.
See the Gold Tip Grip Arrow Adhesive product page. Gold Tip Grip is also sold on Amazon.
What Are the Best Hot Melt Adhesives for Arrow Inserts?
Bohning 1309 Ferr-L-Tite

- Designed for points and inserts.
- Elastic and waterproof.
- Recommended for wood and aluminum shafts — not carbon.
- Heat-reversible on aluminum shafts, though it needs a fairly high temperature.
- Melting point of 350°F (176.7°C).
- No expiration date.
- Cures as soon as it reaches room temperature (about 5 minutes).
See the Bohning product catalog (PDF). The 1309 is also available on Amazon.
Bohning 1308 Ferry-L-Tite Cool Flex
- Designed for points, inserts, and bushings — noticeably different from an old-school standard hot melt.
- Elastic and waterproof.
- Easy to use — you can even melt it with a candle.
- Recommended for carbon, hybrid, aluminum, and fiberglass shafts.
- Fully cured once it reaches room temperature.
- Use hot water for adjustment, replacement, or removal.
- Melting point of 280°F (137.8°C).
- No expiration date.
See the Bohning product catalog (PDF). The 1308 Cool Flex is also available on Amazon.
Easton Hot Melt

- A durable, impact-resistant bond.
- Low-temperature melting point.
- Only for aluminum and hybrid (A/C) arrow shafts — Easton doesn't recommend it for carbon arrows.
- Easton recommends it specifically for aluminum inserts.
- Removable, so you can customize your arrow build later.
Source: Easton arrow assembly guide (PDF). Easton Hot Melt sticks are also sold on Amazon.
- Reddit/Discord sentiment: Across bowhunting and target-archery forums, shaft cleanliness comes up as the most repeated point of failure — more threads blame a dirty bore than blame the glue itself.
- Top praised feature: Epoxy's gap-filling behavior gets singled out most often for salvaging a slightly undersized insert that a thin CA glue couldn't have saved.
- Common friction point: Archers who reach for a fast CA glue on a hunting arrow, then later decide they wanted a reversible bond for retuning, are a recurring regret in these threads — reversibility is the factor people say they wish they'd thought about first.
So Which Arrow Insert Glue Should You Choose?
The right insert glue is genuinely a "depends" answer — it comes down to your shaft material, how permanent you want the bond to be, and how much curing time you're willing to wait out. The sheer number of brands on the market doesn't make that decision any easier.
My advice: settle on your own priorities first, then pick an option that's widely used and well documented rather than chasing something obscure. A well-matched, mainstream choice will cover what most archers need. Run your exact setup through the finder tool near the top of this page, or jump back to the quick-answer list for a shortcut by situation.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is epoxy or super glue better for arrow inserts?
Epoxy is generally the safer default because it bonds a wider range of shaft materials, fills small gaps between the insert and shaft wall, and holds up better across temperature swings. Cyanoacrylate (super glue) sets in seconds and is easier to use, which makes it the better choice for a quick field repair or for aluminum shafts, but it's more brittle and less gap-filling than epoxy.
What glue does Easton recommend for arrow inserts?
Easton's own arrow-assembly guidance points to AAE Epoxy for aluminum and carbon inserts, and to its own Hot Melt for aluminum and hybrid (A/C) shafts specifically — Easton does not recommend hot melt for carbon arrows. For fast field repairs, Easton also sells Dr. Doug's Quickbond, an impact-resistant cyanoacrylate.
Can you use hot melt glue on carbon arrows?
Not usually. Standard hot melt adhesives like Bohning's 1309 Ferr-L-Tite are made for wood and aluminum shafts, not carbon. Bohning's 1308 Ferry-L-Tite Cool Flex is the exception — it's formulated for carbon, hybrid, aluminum, and fiberglass shafts and is fully cured once it reaches room temperature.
How long does arrow insert glue need to cure?
It depends heavily on the adhesive type. Cyanoacrylate glues reach handling strength in 15-45 seconds but aren't fully bonded for roughly 24 hours. Five-minute epoxies set in about five minutes but usually need 20-24 hours for a full cure. Insert-specific cements like Bohning Insert Iron take much longer — 48 hours, or 72 hours in dry air. Always check the product's technical data sheet, since these ranges vary by brand.
Does arrow insert glue need to be reversible?
Only if you expect to rebuild or swap components later. Cyanoacrylate can usually be softened with acetone, and hot melt can be reheated and removed, but epoxy, and insert-specific cements like Bohning Insert Iron, are designed to form a permanent bond and are much harder to remove without damaging the shaft.
Why is cleaning the arrow shaft before gluing so important?
Any dirt, oil, grime, or dust left inside the shaft interferes with adhesion and can weaken the bond significantly, regardless of which glue you use. Manufacturers including Bohning specifically call out cleaning as a required step before applying insert adhesive, and it matters as much as choosing the right glue in the first place.
What glue should I use for a wood arrow insert?
Traditional wood glues such as carpenter's glue or PVA (polyvinyl acetate) work well because they stay flexible enough to move with the wood. Cyanoacrylate is also a common choice on wooden surfaces, and Bohning's Platinum Fletch-Tite is designed to work on both wood and carbon.
Does the insert material — aluminum, brass, steel or titanium — change which glue I should use?
Less than you'd think. Almost every epoxy and cyanoacrylate sold for arrow inserts is already formulated for metal-to-metal or metal-to-shaft bonding, so it works across aluminum, brass, steel and titanium inserts about equally. The choice that actually matters is shaft material, reversibility, and cure time, not what the insert itself is made of.
What if my insert doesn't fit snugly inside the shaft?
Reach for a gap-filling adhesive rather than a thin, fast cyanoacrylate. Epoxy resins — Gorilla Epoxy, Loctite Epoxy Five-Minute, and J-B Weld ClearWeld among them — are formulated to bridge uneven or undersized gaps between the insert and shaft wall, where a thin CA glue can leave voids that weaken the bond under repeated impact.
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If your own results disagree with anything above, that is the most useful thing you could leave here. Setup, distance and what actually happened beats an opinion every time — and corrections get the page changed.
